“If we were up there right now, we’d be drinking tea in the refugio,” I say, staring at the bright, glaciated summit surrounded by stars. “And we’d start climbing in three hours.”

It is a perfectly clear night. From our vantage point at The Secret Garden hostel, we can see the entirety of the Cotopaxi volcano. I stare longingly at the beautiful mountain I have wanted to climb for so long, trying to detach from the lump of disappointment that seems to have settled in my stomach.

The riots and protests that started the day I arrived in Ecuador have increased in intensity and violence, resulting in a start of emergency in Quito. All schools are closed. The government has moved from Quito to Guayaquil. And every national park in the country is closed.

The civil unrest has thrown a giant wrench in our plans for attempting some alpine summit bids. We’ve done a few big hikes, but our ice axes, crampons, and other mountaineering equipment has remained at the bottom of our duffle bags, untouched.

I’m bummed out, but trying to look on the bright side: I’ve spent just over a week in one of my favorite countries, enjoying conversations with people from all over the world, and practicing my rusty Spanish.

Of course dear Jon, the best adventure buddy in the world, has said all the right things: This has been a great trip and Ecuador is awesome. Thank you for bringing me here. Don’t worry— we’ll come back to climb Cotopaxi. 

The following morning, we pack our bags to head to the Quito airport. We think our trip is over. But the real adventure is just about to begin.